1959: When the “Beat Scene” Hit Miramar Beach, Part I

[Prologue: To the young bohemians, the unpleasant message of the 1950s was that it was not the individual that was important, it was the individual’s possessions. The bohemians chose to live in abandoned warehouse lofts, took menial jobs–or didn’t work at all.

They were fervently anti-establishment. And jazz music was their religion. Many came from middle class homes and rattled the nerves and sensibilities of their elders as they spewed a mumbo jumbo about “acting out” and unleashing their inhibitions. They were members of the Beat Generation who patterned their lives on characters in Jack Kerouac’s book, “On The Road.” They revered the existentialist French philosopher Jean Paul Sarte and hung out at the City Lights bookstore near the cafes in North Beach in San Francisco.]

Photo: The Douglas brothers, Pete and Jack, hang loose at the Ebb Tide Cafe.

On a balmy Sunday afternoon in the fall of 1959, a ragtag crew of pranksters spilled out of the funky Ebb Tide Cafe onto dusty Mirada Road overlooking the sparkling Pacific Ocean at Miramar Beach. They were madly gyrating to the soundtrack from the celebrated movie, “Black Orpheus”–whose spectacular backdrop was the kaleidoscopic carnival in Rio de Janiero.

“It’s the music of the slums on the hills overlooking Rio de Janiero. In the hot sun, there’s nothing like it,” Pete Douglas, concert manager of the acclaimed Miramar Beach jazz house, the Bach Dancing & Dynamite Society, told me in 1979. Twenty years earlier the thin and wiry Douglas was in his late 20s–and the owner of the funky Ebb Tide Cafe–a weekend coffee shop and hangout for part-time Coastside beatniks.

…to be continued…

1974: Remembering “Mr. Ed” & His $3 Million Plan To Help Develop The Coastside

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Mr. Ed called a “Community Meeting” on February 26, 1974—was it held in the offices of a colorful dentist, now long gone?

Ed was a husky fellow with long hair hanging like a crown of feathers from his head. In the center of the crown was a neat, clean bald spot. He was always good natured.

In the early 1970s there were different layers of Coastsiders– the locals who had lived here all their lives and the newcomers who could be broken down into sub-groups of environmentalists, seclusion-lovers and hippies.

The Coastside was a temporary haven for the hippies.They had their eye on a place that was most often simply identified as “up north”–was it Said Valley? Some of them had already left Half Moon Bay and made a new home there.

It was the “growth” that was was pushing the Coastside hippies away– the appearance of the Alpha Beta supermarket for starters–they knew the very first traffic lights couldn’t be far behind.

The Coastsider hippies I encountered were mostly family-oriented, working hippies–woodworking and cutting down trees and selling slabs of pretty redwood burls for tables.

Within the hippie group, Mr. Ed held a special position not only because he was very smart– but he also said he had “visions”. One time, for example, he was watching the sun set when before his eyes it changed from a big orange ball of fire into a pyramid–for some folks a powerful and magical shape.

In 1974 Mr. Ed sensed hard times coming–President Nixon was facing certain impeachment–and Ed feared a financial depression. He said the Coastside hippies needed to be organized work-wise, moving their logs and wood products efficiently to the point of sale– and he was the one to do it.

Thus the “Community Meeting” was called in the dentist’s office.

Mr. Ed brought together the creme de la creme of Coastside hippies. His main goal, he said, should times get tough, was to ensure that the communal- loving hippies had plenty of work. He proposed a $3 million project–a new trucking enterprise that would involve driving “up north” to pick up shingles from the former Coastsiders who had relocated and bringing the wood products back to Half Moon Bay for sale.

At the time there was no construction going on “up north” and the hippies who had moved there from Half Moon Bay were in dire straits. There was some building on the Coastside, but on the sidelines, just waiting for the green light,were plenty of heavy-hitters, pocket books open, ready to fill in the beautiful open space with houses and subdivisions. And that was what Mr. Ed believed would make his project turn into gold at the end of the rainbow.

Communal as they might have aspired to be, the Coastside hippies resisted organization. They admired Mr. Ed’s plan and considered it–but the timing was all wrong. The hippies and the small builders and the heavy hitters were all thwarted by a big, successful “Save the Coastside” campaign–which ultimately resulted in no building at all.

And then the first signal light was put in–by then the Coastside hippies had moved to the mysterious “up north”…”Mr. Ed” vanished and there were no more flyers on the front door announcing “Community Meetings”.

Dino.jpg Photo: Dino, (left), seen here with his friend Elizabeth, was one of the “hippies” who attended Mr. Ed’s Community Meeting in 1974.

He Lived In Moss Beach: December 1977: “Jimmy The Weasel” Fratianno Arrested In

Connection With Two Gang Murders In Ohio

“James T. Fratianno, who resided at —— in Moss Beach, was arrested in San Francisco on Monday by the FBI in connection with two Ohio gangland killings. He is known as ‘Jimmy the Weasel’.

“Fratianno gave no resistance and was brought handcuffed into the FBI office in the federal building. He was one of eight persons named in the complaint filed earlier in the day in the eastern city.

“‘The Weasel’ was out on bail for nearly two weeks. He gave himself up to the FBI on the day before Thanksgiving after charges were announced aainst him for alleged crimes in the L.A. area.

“A federal racketeering criminal complaint alleges one charge of murder and conspiracy to commit two murders.

“Roy McKinnon, special FBI agent in charge, said a .22 caliber revolver was found in a secret under-the-seat compartment of Fratianno’s car. He had a prearranged meeting at the motel but was alone when arrested.

“McKinnon said the complaint alleges Fratianno was ‘an arranger in the murder of two men in the Cleveland area’.

“The agent said that the slayings were ‘gangland motivated: a struggle for power’ in Ohio. U.S. Magistrate Richard Goldsmith set his bail at $50,000.

“Fratianno, who moved to San Francisco last Friday, said he will post bail and go back to his hometown of Cleveland for a hearing set for defendants Friday.

“‘I wasn’t an actual participant in whatever happened. I wasn’t even there,’ said Fratianno. ‘I understand there is word I talked to someone. I can prove I was not there at the time’.

“The FBI affidavit identified one victim as John Nardi, a Cosa Nostra member from Cleveland and the other as Danny Greene, head of the ‘Irish mob’ in the area. Nardi was killed last May 17 by a bomb in a vehicle next to his car, while Greene died when a remote control bomb was detonated in his car on Oct. 6

“The FBI affidavit alleged that Raymond Ferritto, charged with participating in the Greene murder, told them he was a long time associate ‘of La Cosa Nostra member James ‘The Weasel’ Fratianno, who resides in California.

HMB Review, December 1977

I’ll have more on “Jimmy the Weasel” later….

Sybil & Louis at Tunitas Creek: (Short Version) Conclusion

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Not only was the artisit Sybil Easterday’s home at Tunitas Creek, the end of the Ocean Shore Railroad’s line– but her husband Louis ran the rustic saloon there. Louis, whose drinking was anything but recreational, often barricaded himself in his office at the back of the saloon. During these serious drinking bouts, he surrounded himself with “firearms from a complete arsenal,” making it clear he wanted to be left alone.

Until her marriage, Sybil’s life seemed to have been orderly. The house, landscaped with pretty flowers and shrubs, had been built with money from her commissions. It stood in a secluded spot beneath a bridge. Valuable antiques, handcarved furniture, as well as statuettes and paintings, examples of her work, filled the rooms.

But suddenly her life took a dark turn.

Just before Valentine’s Day in 1916, Sybil, now 40, faced a horrible domestic crisis. She later recounted that the 33-year-old Louis had been drinking heavily as usual and had shut himself up in his office–but this time he did not respond to her pleas to open the door.

Some locals thought it unusual that instead of calling the police, she summoned Dr. Clarence V. Thompson. A county supervisor, Dr. Thompson resided with his wife in a big two-story house in Pescadero. He had set up a “hospital” in his home but few if any patients were admitted there.

When Dr. Thompson arrived at Tunitas Creek, he found the doors of the saloon broken in and rushed to the back office.

Before him, Sybil’s husband Louis was slumped over, a gaping wound in his chest. A double-barreled shotgun lay on the floor.

The official inquest called it a suicide.

After Louis’s death, Sybil and Flora, her invalid mother, pursued a reclusive life. Sybil, who died in 1961, was seldom seen but there were those who remember the vision of a lonely figure wandering around her property at Tunitas Creek, a rifle in her hands.

[Examples of Sybil Easterday’s sculpture can be viewed at the San Mateo County History Museum in Redwood City–but the artist’s eccentricity has provided her most enduring legacy.]

Photo: Sybil Easterday, courtesy San Mateo County History Museum

We Hear From Fayden, The HMB Man Who Drinks Too Much Coffee

fayden99.jpgPhoto: Poodle, is that a black cat, too?– and Belinda with Fayden. Photo: courtesy Fayden

Hi June! Just busy fixing, building, being a grandpa, being a dad, being a husband, being a good worker, being being being etc. (Baba Ram Dass would have liked those last three words).

There is this really nice man who just moved to the coast named Charles, who owns Coastside spa repair in Princeton– he is very interested in coastside history (military, mainly, I think). What building did what kinda thing and where.

I told him about the pedestrian overpass in Montara going over to the lighthouse for the enlisted men– from the end of what is now Serra St. in Moss Beach– and about the gun turrets in front of the Distillery– and that most of the horizontal (small lap), lap strake homes on the coast were probably officers homes.

Then I had this great idea, and I suggested he read your articles. I loaned him your book (I really want you to autograph it), and told him perhaps you would know more about the coast in this regard.

This picture is of Belinda Balaski and me the day before I left to go to Europe on tour in 1970– she starred in and acted in a bunch of movies and now runs an acting school in L.A.. Belinda was a local on the coast in the late sixties, worked at the Miramar Beach Inn– although it was called the Spouter Inn for awhile, then the Shelter Inn. Belinda is a great gal! She was one of the rare coastside poodle owners as well.

She always had Muffin, her poodle, with her wherever she was– and apparently has always had one to this day. I like guitars better, I don’t have to feed them, take them for walks, or hold them unless I want to!

Anyway, got back from my European tour…the first morning back I’m walking south on the beach from El Granada, and I see Belinda running in front of the Miramar Inn across the beach. My hopes arise that she and I will pick up where we had romantically departed. She sees me… smiles, comes running up to me, gives me a big hug, and kiss– and in the same moment tells me excitedly she is living with Mike Mindell! My heart was broken…….. well not really, but I was forever jealous of Mike after this moment.

Mike, by the way, was one of the managers from the Spouter Inn days. He and Belinda moved to Manhattan beach where Mike recorded for Kapp records while Belinda launched her acting career. Mike is a great guy too, reminds me of Peter Adams in a way.

So there is a part of coastside history before you moved here, my friend, that was apparently important for me to share with you.

By the way, I fell in love with you the day you brought two plastic dog puppets that operated from squeeze handles into the kitchen by the back door. Do you remember them? You sat across from me at the kitchen table, and did a puppet show with them, you being the voice for both! You won my heart forever!

F

Local Character “Billy the Kid”

was a competitive foot racer who kept in shape by running up to the top of Devil’s Slide and back everyday. That’s Devil’s Slide in the back of this amazing photo, taken when? I don’t know, early 20th century?

billythekid.jpgPhoto courtesy San Mateo County History Center. Visit the museum at the historic Redwood City courthouse.

The Chalkboard Man

In 1975 one of the more colorful characters that lived at Princeton-by-the-Sea– drat! I can’t remember his name or his face—but I do remember what he did—I guess, in his search for spirituality.

He stopped talking; he stopped communicating verbally. He didn’t speak to anybody.

He wore a small square chalkboard on a leather cord around his neck and if you wanted to ask him something he gave you a piece of white chalk to write with. His response, if he chose to answer, was on the reverse side of the chalkboard.

Obviously questions and answers had to be short because the chalkboard wasn’t big enough for long back and forths.

This went on for months. I don’t know how many months. The last time I saw him wearing the blackboard around his neck was at the Ketch JoAnne–and that was 30 years ago.

There are a couple of things I wonder about:

1. Is he still around and using his chalkboard?

2.Did he throw away the chalkboard—and find spiritual peace?

Fragment Of An Afternoon (in El Granada in 1975)

David S. from Pescadero arrived at my house in an old, slow blue-gray car.

He has a redwood slab he wants to sell; it would make a great kitchen counter top, he tells me.

My husband John isn’t home so David says he’ll go down the street to see his friend who lives in the pink house on the corner.

I tell David that when John comes home I’ll send him down there.

Soon afterwards John comes home and together we walk to the pink house. David comes down the stairs and shows us the redwood slab. It’s beautiful.

David says he needs money—he’s moving from Pescadero to Colorado—more trees than in Pescadero, he tells us.

We give him $5—but he wants $20 for the slab– which is really a good price—David says if John were working for him, he’d sell it for $15. He needs $20.

David’s wearing “his old lady’sâ€? pants because he says his own clothes are dirty and he’s late for dinner at the Carter sister’s home in Half Moon Bay….

We take the slab…we tell David we know someone who will pay $20….

Clay Fountain One-Of-A-Kind Man (Part II)

Clay12JPG.jpgClay Fountain was one of many Coastsiders I interviewed in 1980-81 for a documentary called “The Mystery of Half Moon Bay”.

Here are more of Clay’s comments. (See the earlier post for more information on his background).

–The Coastal Commission–

“I think the Coastal Commission has worked quite well although I know a lot of resentment has built up against it recently.

“The opponents of Prop 20 weren’t able to deflect it at the polls and so then they set up about working at it, in all sorts of other ways, at local levels, running advertising, getting groups together which sometimes misrepresent what the Coastal Commission is trying to do.

“In the interim the Coastal Commission has tended to soften some of its attitudes somewhat.

“And I disagree with that.

“I think they shouldn’t have softened under this underground and sometimes open attacks by people who are interested in getting richer, getting fatter and having more power.

–Coastside Roads–

“I’m perfectly happy with the roads the way they are.

“I think Devil’s Slide is dangerous and I would agree to having a bypass on the other side of the mountain—but not a massive freeway.

“Like we try to get off our side street on a Saturday or Sunday and sometimes you gotta wait 20 minutes before you find a break in traffic.

-Coastside Fog—

“Enduring fog is worth it to me because there are so many aspects…I can hear the surf pounding at night and I can hear the sea fowl calling down there and there’s a school of smelt or anchovies and I can hear the wind in the trees.”

-Newcomers-
“I find that they [newcomers] change after they get here…they become excited about the coastside and wish that so many more wouldn’t come…

“I was a naturalist and I loved the outdoors and a clean environment from the time I was a child. I’ve spent time in big cities and I don’t like big cities…”

-Environmental Movement-

“My feeling is that the ecology and environmental movement is growing. It’s growing steadily and will one day be the cause of a spiritual rebirth…

“I think we’re marking time. There’s population trickling in. The sewer plant is now going to be built but there’s been some limits put on what can happen with the sewer plant.

“I think there will bew a continuing increase in the population but we’ll still be able to keep it under what the developers want to do……”